In this episode of Look Behind The Look, I delve into the vibrant world of the film Emilia Pérez with the head of the makeup department, Julia Floch-Carbonel. The film stars Selena Gomez and Zoe Saldaña as you have never seen them, and everyone is talking about Karla Sofía Gascón this awards season. We explore the intricate artistry behind the film's makeup design, discussing the creative processes that brought the characters to life. We also touch on the film's controversial aspects, inviting listeners to engage in the broader conversation surrounding its reception.
Julia shares her journey of working with renowned director Jacques and how the collaboration evolved from their previous project. She provides insights into the unique challenges and rewarding experiences of crafting the film's visual narrative, including the symbolic transition of the main character and the collaborative efforts with costume designers like Virginie Montel…
Speaking of costumes, just imagine the costume department’s surprise when Saint Laurent came on to the project 3 weeks before shooting had a few new ideas (!)
The episode highlights the meticulous preparation and creative freedom that allowed the team to push boundaries and create an authentic yet stylized portrayal of the characters. From the influence of opera and musical elements to the innovative choreography, Julia offers a behind-the-scenes look at the dedication and passion that fueled the film's success.
00:00:00 Welcome!
00:05:07 So tell me how it came into your life to work with Jacques
00:10:28 Everything centers around the mouth because it says something about the character
00:14:19 The transformation of Rita (Zoe Saldaña)
00:17:17 Saint Laurent came, um, along three weeks before we shoot
00:19:03 Film references that inspired Emilia Pérez
00:22:20 What was the hardest film to shoot?
Get full access to Look Behind The Look's Substack from Tiffany Bartok at lookbehindthelook.substack.com/subscribe
Follow us on YouTube Instagram for more updates!
Get full access to Look Behind The Look's Substack from Tiffany Bartok at lookbehindthelook.substack.com/subscribe
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Welcome to look behind the look, the celebrated podcast that
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explores your favorite looks in film, television and
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fashion history. Through conversations with the fashion world's
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elite and award winning hair, makeup and costume
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designers on sets around the world, you will see and hear
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exciting tales from behind the scenes, career origin
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stories and tons of advice and tips. I'm your
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host, Tiffany Bartok. Hey everybody. Welcome to
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look behind the Look. We're deep into award
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season and so there's so
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many movies to talk about right now and so much
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amazing work. The film we're talking about today
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is Emilia Perez. Today I'm speaking to the head of
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the makeup department, Julia Flock Carbonel.
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Please forgive my horrendous French. I spoke with
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Julia the morning after I saw the film. I did
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not know anything about the controversy. The film had
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just come out and.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: I hadn't read, read into it.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Or looked, into the film at all. I simply
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watched it. I was truly blown away by the
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film. I have since looked into,
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the controversy, the backlash, all
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sides of the story.
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And please look into it. Just google
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Emilia Perez controversy because it's an
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interesting conversation to be had. I
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appreciate, the perspective of the trans
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community and I think it's a good conversation to
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be had. I was marveling
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in particular about the.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Herculean effort of making this
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musical. I saw it as an opera
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melodrama.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: I, thought it was really a magnificent
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film. I think the performances are
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incredible and I really loved it. And Julia's work
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as the makeup artist in the film is great and she talks about, about all
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the different departments in this interview.
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And so I do hope you'll give it a listen.
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And, I'd like to hear from.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: You about the film and what you thought.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Let's engage in a conversation about this. I think it's
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an important film to see. and again, I
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appreciate the point of view of the people who are
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speaking out against the film in the trans community.
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And I just, I think it's a really good conversation
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to go back and forth with and, for
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all of us to understand all points of view.
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here's our conversation.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Are you English?
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>> Speaker C: No, I'm not English. Why? No, because
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you, you are pretty.
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So does your
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client have a name?
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He desires to remain anonymous.
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If you're not willing to accept, I don't think it's
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worth talking.
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Just cut to the chase.
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To listen is to accept.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Hi, I'm here with Julia now and
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let's dive right into this
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masterpiece film. I,
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I rarely talk to people that where I didn't
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like the movie. So I know I'm always gushing,
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but like, this is an absolute
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masterpiece. I want to know Soup,
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to nuts, everything that. How
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the hell did this come into your life
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and how did you make
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this movie together? Emilia
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Perez is. I'm sure it's going to be, if
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not already nominated for the
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best foreign film. It's won ton of awards
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from can. It's
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on Netflix now. Everyone should see it.
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I was saying last night there's two musicals to choose
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from this weekend. One is Wicked and one's
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Amelia Paris.
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>> Speaker C: Yeah, I can't wait to see Wicked too. It look amazing.
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Like there's so much good film right now and
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like makeup and stuff. We are like,
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really, it's amazing. Like, I love it.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Well, going into this, I had no idea that it was a
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musical. I didn't know anything about it
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and was blown away. So. So talk to me
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and let's just that this is going to
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be, best listened to and
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viewed after you see the film. Because
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I just don't want to be careful about spoilers or anything.
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Of course. Because it was it.
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If you. If you haven't seen it,
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I don't want you to know anything going in to it because it's
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just surprise after surprise.
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So tell me how it came into your life.
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>> Speaker C: Well, it was the second time that I worked with
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Jacob. Jacob is really like
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incredible. Someone really important in France.
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So my career changed completely as soon
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as I work with him.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: And what was the. What was the other film? Julia, what was the other film that
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you were.
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>> Speaker C: It's Le O. It's just a film before.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Okay.
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>> Speaker C: And it's really more simple film like
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intimid film about relationship
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in Paris and you know,
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just love. Love in Paris right now
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and meeting people through connection,
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and computer and resource, so.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Oh, cool.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Okay.
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>> Speaker C: It was a great. I was by
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myself. Like the thing is, I could work with
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Jacques because of Virginie Montel, who is an amazing
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artistic director that I've met before,
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on few film. Really like, you know,
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tough film to do. No money. And at
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night in Paris in winter, I. Oh
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God. She's seen me like work
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my ass off in pretty bad
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condition. And I had no idea that she
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was such a big artistic
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director because we were doing small
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movie.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Oh yeah.
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>> Speaker C: But we had fun and we had a good, great
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connection. And then I did a news. She
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was artistic director of Jacques and his
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partner, got it. His partner in
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Life. So one day she called me for
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zero and she said to me, like,
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I am searching for someone to design makeup
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for next film of Jacques. And I was like,
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oh, oh, you're mistaken. It's Julia
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makeup. You know, like, no, she said, like, I'm
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searching for someone for next Jack movie. And I was like,
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oh, you know, it's not Julia costume, it's Julia
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makeup. You did a mistake,
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probably. She laughed and I was
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like, Uh-huh. And then we did that on my
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lampshade. I was by myself for hair and makeup because
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it were more like a theatrical. Theatrical
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crew. And then the big Emilia,
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like, she trust me with that again. And
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we were a lot of people and the international
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casting was amazing. And I
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was really into this question,
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at the time. I think it's a. The most
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fascinating job that I had to search
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for. But, like,
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it was so interesting. And we met amazing
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actress.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: So Julia, you signed on to the project before you
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knew. Before you read the script.
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>> Speaker C: I, wonder. No, I think. I think Jacques is not like
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that.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Okay. he told you everything that you were getting into? Yeah.
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>> Speaker C: There is this new fashion of like, signing before
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reading the script. I'm working with Luc Besson too.
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And, it's a new way to go. And that's
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right for the
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secret part. But like, Jack doesn't work that
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way. Virginie told me a lot. It was
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a scenario in process because we start
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working on, Emilia Perez. Six months ago,
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I was working on a show. So every weekend of
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mine, I would meet Carola Sophia or we
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would work with Virginia. It's not formal
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way of working, but it's constant.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Okay.
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>> Speaker C: Constant inspiration, drawing. And
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you know, we. We grow a lot. It's always
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a question, a circular question. Because
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Virginie work a lot, got a lot of
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idea. I have to propose
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some option.
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>> Speaker C: Research. Then Jack come along and
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so sometimes we find some
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answer and then next question come
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along and then it question
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the answer of before. It's always,
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always, always, always. So it takes time. But it's
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really. It's just such a
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great process because we don't want to go. As soon as
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you read a script, you have this,
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in conscience collective coming
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along. M. We all get this image of
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films that we've seen or, you know, actualities
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that we know. And the circular
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thing is to do not make it
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obvious. Never. Ah. To make it the most
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intelligent and, you know, the most thoughtful.
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And, for me, I take most
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freedom of my creativity is
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like When I have some, content, like,
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some. Some points that I get to
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respect. If I'm all free,
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I'm not that great. But if I act like,
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you know, some point the structure or, I don't
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know, some, for example, we had, like, this
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mouse of, Carla when she got
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prosthetic. Not spoiler, but,
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like, for example, this mouse was
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a point, and we construct
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our character around it because we couldn't cover
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it. And it make it, like, really helpful
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for me to find something
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because something had to be this
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way. I'm sorry, my friend.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: No, no, it's. It's all right. It's all right.
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So. So you have the goal of working with the
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mouth, right. And then everything centers
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around that because it's saying something about the
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character to make it
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believable.
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>> Speaker C: But we couldn't hide the mouse of.
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Real beautiful mouse of Kerala.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Yeah.
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>> Speaker C: We had to find. And it helped us to find the
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characters.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: This is. This is. This is the main question that I.
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I was kept coming up. Is that how
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believable did you want it to be? You know what I
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mean? Like, so believable that she didn't
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recognize that, Zoe Saldana did not
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recognize her at the table.
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Yeah, but we knew who it was
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right away. So how. How do you
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tackle that? I mean, it. Was it
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hard to. And then. And then the look of
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her developed as she became more and more comfortable
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with her woman.
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>> Speaker C: Exactly.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Okay. Okay, great.
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>> Speaker C: The thing is, like, this transition is
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not, It's symbolic. It's.
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It's for Emilia to
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finally let love in and express
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love in her life. She's not stuck in,
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main cage or masculinity or toxic
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masculinity. Like, it's, That's what she said in
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the trailer. Like, she. She's
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stuck. She's stuck in representation
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of what is cartel, what is man, what is. And then
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she can't love the way she wants to love,
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and she wants to. She
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remind of a character of the past, a woman that
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she loved, and she choose as
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a love symbol, and she wanted to be.
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And so, And so
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that's. That's the purpose of it. The contrast has to
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be. Manitas has to be scary. Really scary.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Yes.
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>> Speaker C: Like. Yeah, like a chimera. Like a ghost.
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She's trapped in a trailer. She's,
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I. I use this image, but a, little bit of
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Marlon Brando in Apocalypse now, you know.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Aha. Yes. I can see it
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immediately.
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>> Speaker C: You see the, You know, the face and the lighting.
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And when I saw the movie, he struck me. I didn't
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thought about it before, but I was like, yeah, in the
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trailer it's already a cage and
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she's already dead as this one.
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And then like, when she's in
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hospital, the light came on the first time.
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That, light. Daylight is coming in the
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film. Otherwise it's always night.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Right.
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>> Speaker C: And she's like, she got a
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lot of. I put a lot of, you know,
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sweat and blood and you know, like. Because it's
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so violent to go through this and it's so
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painful. And when I hear people saying like,
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it's a fashion or I don't know, it's.
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I, can't believe like, does
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irrespectful it is to say that.
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Do you mean.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Do you mean when people say they. When people are
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belittling it by saying like, oh, they just want to do
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this and you are. You understand all that goes into.
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>> Speaker C: Yeah, yeah. And I love the hospital
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part because it, it
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shows how.
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How unhappy you have to be to go
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through this physical pain and the trust
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process of, you know, going through it.
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So we make a lot of bandage and stuff to
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hide, of course. Beautiful
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features, but also like, the
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skin is really bruises and really sweaty
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and really, you know, she. It's a mutation.
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It's like a, butterfly mutation.
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And then London.
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Yeah. Rita. And her. Because
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Rita goes through a transition too. Like she.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Right.
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>> Speaker C: Money. She made money and she made power
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because she's such a bright lawyer at first.
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But she's stuck with this bad man and
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immoral, you know, process of,
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prosecuting, like men, who kill women.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Yeah.
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>> Speaker C: But she's stuck. She's a black woman still. And we know
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how hard it is, like on this planet.
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Yes. But then with the money,
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she can choose and she can be
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there and she can be powerful as, Zoe
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Saldana is. She's
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tremendously beautiful and
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sophisticated and she's. She's graceful.
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Thank you. So our main work was to
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find Rita's first.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Uh-huh.
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>> Speaker C: Bushy eyebrows. The eyebrows and
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a little shadow here, like a
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mustache. We change her hair with a wig
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00:14:50.364 --> 00:14:52.664
to make it more like curly.
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Eventually. Black hair. Black hair. Because,
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like, Zoe got amazing strange hair.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Right.
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>> Speaker C: Her hair is the second part. It's all.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Wow, I wondered about that.
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>> Speaker C: But really sophisticated too, huh?
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Uh-huh.
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>> Speaker C: It's, you know, she,
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00:15:10.434 --> 00:15:13.417
she took care a, great care of her hair. But it's. So
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to have such a long hair for a black woman. And
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beautiful eyes.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Yes.
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>> Speaker C: It's a miracle. Like, she. So we had to
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find, like. And we pin her hair a lot.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Yeah.
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>> Speaker C: She has to disappear.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Yeah.
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>> Speaker C: And Zoe doesn't disappear when she enter a
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room. Oh, something is happening. Like,
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00:15:32.651 --> 00:15:33.931
she can't disappear.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Wow.
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>> Speaker C: So Rita first has to disappear
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to. She got this bad suit, gray suit,
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00:15:40.235 --> 00:15:43.214
matte suits. We had some bad, too,
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for our body to do. Not be as amazing as it
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is.
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>> Speaker C: She's still really. Oh, yeah.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: It's a tough sell, right?
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>> Speaker C: I would be. I would love this body, you know.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: And, when she was dancing, I was. I was
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like, I had no idea she could use her body
350
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this way. This is. I want to see this all the time.
351
00:16:02.736 --> 00:16:05.312
>> Speaker C: Amazing. She's a dancer first
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00:16:05.384 --> 00:16:08.072
and fantastic. She's dedicated. That's why
353
00:16:08.104 --> 00:16:10.790
she's so good at, being actress, too. Is like,
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dancing is going through pain
355
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and discipline. and, a lot and a lot. And
356
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a lot of effort. And Zoe is, like, so
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good at it. She's so dedicated to
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her, ah, work. And it's coming from
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00:16:25.300 --> 00:16:25.896
dance.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: I had no idea. I had no idea.
361
00:16:29.284 --> 00:16:32.148
>> Speaker C: Me neither. But I like the red suit. We
362
00:16:32.172 --> 00:16:34.972
could watch it, like, we shoot it, like, for two days.
363
00:16:35.044 --> 00:16:37.508
And we were each taking. We were
364
00:16:37.532 --> 00:16:40.188
like, oh, my God, it was
365
00:16:40.252 --> 00:16:40.932
gorgeous.
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>> Tiffany Bartok: I was wondering about Anthony Varcarello's
367
00:16:43.588 --> 00:16:46.498
involvement in the film. I saw that he was one of the
368
00:16:46.522 --> 00:16:49.252
producers, from St.
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00:16:49.284 --> 00:16:52.268
Laurent. And that's. The suit was
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00:16:52.292 --> 00:16:54.964
a Saint Laurent suit, I guess.
371
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Yes.
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>> Speaker C: Of course. Everyone gets,
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00:16:58.811 --> 00:17:01.646
they came along after, like. Interesting.
374
00:17:01.946 --> 00:17:04.678
Yeah. Virginia, and Ariane, like, the
375
00:17:04.702 --> 00:17:07.504
costume designer, search for months.
376
00:17:07.640 --> 00:17:10.504
We all search for months. And it's really comfortable
377
00:17:10.560 --> 00:17:13.332
to have such a long time to search and
378
00:17:13.364 --> 00:17:15.932
search. As I said to you, circular question
379
00:17:16.004 --> 00:17:18.876
and everyone going on board to respond
380
00:17:18.916 --> 00:17:21.576
to it. And Saint Laurent
381
00:17:22.396 --> 00:17:25.113
came, along three weeks before we shoot.
382
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>> Tiffany Bartok: Oh, wow.
383
00:17:27.721 --> 00:17:30.697
>> Speaker C: And so it was great to have them on
384
00:17:30.729 --> 00:17:33.452
board, of course, but, like, it, creates
385
00:17:33.580 --> 00:17:34.773
kind of a panic,
386
00:17:36.498 --> 00:17:39.290
because the costume was already done, you
387
00:17:39.314 --> 00:17:42.074
know, so. Oh, they work.
388
00:17:42.186 --> 00:17:44.826
They work together with Virginia and Ariane.
389
00:17:44.922 --> 00:17:47.610
And the scene was they create as a look
390
00:17:47.674 --> 00:17:50.226
stuff. And Saint Laurent recreated,
391
00:17:50.322 --> 00:17:53.210
like, with Saint Laurent touch. And
392
00:17:53.394 --> 00:17:55.798
they made this work three weeks before.
393
00:17:56.378 --> 00:17:58.718
When you are working for two years, you're like,
394
00:17:59.258 --> 00:17:59.858
no.
395
00:17:59.978 --> 00:18:02.866
>> Tiffany Bartok: Wow, how funny. I
396
00:18:02.882 --> 00:18:05.850
did not know that. That's funny.
397
00:18:06.034 --> 00:18:08.810
>> Speaker C: Yeah. Yeah. But it's so great. Like, the
398
00:18:08.834 --> 00:18:11.740
red costume is such a. Such
399
00:18:11.764 --> 00:18:14.740
a trend just by itself. We all want to
400
00:18:14.804 --> 00:18:16.076
buy a red costume afterwards.
401
00:18:16.132 --> 00:18:18.956
>> Tiffany Bartok: Oh, absolutely. I mean, absolutely. I can see it at the
402
00:18:18.972 --> 00:18:21.588
Oscars. That's what you should all wear and arrive on the stage.
403
00:18:21.668 --> 00:18:22.092
>> Speaker C: Exactly.
404
00:18:22.140 --> 00:18:24.164
>> Tiffany Bartok: Yes, exactly. It's a no brainer.
405
00:18:24.316 --> 00:18:27.030
The movie had so many references that
406
00:18:27.134 --> 00:18:29.950
I picked up on and I wanted to ask you
407
00:18:30.134 --> 00:18:32.750
if I'm on the right track. Like I saw Tommy
408
00:18:32.934 --> 00:18:34.823
the Musical and Evita,
409
00:18:36.308 --> 00:18:38.962
when she is sort of like Che and
410
00:18:39.010 --> 00:18:41.993
Evita in that award scene when,
411
00:18:42.346 --> 00:18:44.826
Zoe's dancing. I wondered if there were any other
412
00:18:44.882 --> 00:18:47.478
references that you guys really were using.
413
00:18:50.338 --> 00:18:52.838
>> Speaker C: Like, I can totally see
414
00:18:53.298 --> 00:18:56.256
what you're saying, but as, French,
415
00:18:56.312 --> 00:18:57.708
we don't have a lot of
416
00:18:58.848 --> 00:19:01.304
musical reference. I've seen
417
00:19:01.336 --> 00:19:04.240
Evita Peron, but Tommy, I
418
00:19:04.264 --> 00:19:07.238
have no idea. Sorry. Oh, and I don't. I don't have this
419
00:19:07.278 --> 00:19:10.118
culture. I will, I will tonight. I will check
420
00:19:10.158 --> 00:19:13.143
on it, of course. But so it was
421
00:19:13.093 --> 00:19:15.985
such a, Trust, Trust, from
422
00:19:16.049 --> 00:19:18.873
our actress to come along with
423
00:19:18.913 --> 00:19:21.337
Jacques, who is French and who doesn't know about
424
00:19:21.385 --> 00:19:24.145
musical. First off, Jacques wanted to write an
425
00:19:24.169 --> 00:19:24.929
opera.
426
00:19:25.081 --> 00:19:25.993
>> Tiffany Bartok: Yes. I was reading.
427
00:19:26.033 --> 00:19:28.809
>> Speaker C: Really inspired by the opera. That's
428
00:19:28.841 --> 00:19:31.481
gonna happen. Yeah, exactly. And then
429
00:19:31.537 --> 00:19:34.513
he. It was with Clement and Camille the
430
00:19:34.553 --> 00:19:37.257
Musical. And they did such a tremendous. They
431
00:19:37.265 --> 00:19:39.929
were working with him, writing and
432
00:19:39.961 --> 00:19:42.691
then, writing music along.
433
00:19:42.827 --> 00:19:43.235
>> Tiffany Bartok: Okay.
434
00:19:43.299 --> 00:19:45.779
>> Speaker C: It worked it that way. And Damien
435
00:19:45.811 --> 00:19:48.445
Jalet made a beautiful, choreography
436
00:19:48.509 --> 00:19:50.458
and. Oh yeah, for me it's
437
00:19:53.443 --> 00:19:54.747
a dark shadow, I guess.
438
00:19:54.875 --> 00:19:55.251
>> Tiffany Bartok: Okay.
439
00:19:55.307 --> 00:19:58.259
>> Speaker C: Like with crazy, dancing in our
440
00:19:58.331 --> 00:20:00.867
bedroom. I love this part. Made
441
00:20:00.915 --> 00:20:03.793
me. When I've seen it on Rush, you know, at
442
00:20:03.833 --> 00:20:04.201
night.
443
00:20:04.297 --> 00:20:04.633
>> Tiffany Bartok: Yes.
444
00:20:04.673 --> 00:20:07.093
>> Speaker C: When I received it, I watched it and I was.
445
00:20:08.593 --> 00:20:11.593
For me it was so amazing. And. And Selena
446
00:20:11.633 --> 00:20:13.337
did such a good work too.
447
00:20:13.385 --> 00:20:16.225
>> Tiffany Bartok: Like I have to say, Selena
448
00:20:16.249 --> 00:20:18.945
Gomez. I mean I never. I always respected her as
449
00:20:18.969 --> 00:20:21.713
a, you know, but performer in general
450
00:20:21.793 --> 00:20:24.493
and an entrepreneur and she's an amazing.
451
00:20:24.873 --> 00:20:27.641
Is her at her best. I
452
00:20:27.657 --> 00:20:30.139
mean, Selena Gomez
453
00:20:30.291 --> 00:20:32.223
kills it. It's just.
454
00:20:32.603 --> 00:20:33.283
>> Speaker C: Yeah.
455
00:20:33.403 --> 00:20:36.227
>> Tiffany Bartok: And the number that goes with all of the.
456
00:20:36.315 --> 00:20:39.203
All of the people at the end of that one. Does
457
00:20:39.243 --> 00:20:41.211
the bedroom go into that again?
458
00:20:41.307 --> 00:20:44.019
>> Speaker C: Yeah, exactly. In the dark shadow
459
00:20:44.131 --> 00:20:46.979
and like to go hysterical with the movement
460
00:20:47.011 --> 00:20:49.659
of head. It was really difficult choreography to
461
00:20:49.691 --> 00:20:52.355
make. And she rocked it and she got a wig
462
00:20:52.419 --> 00:20:53.023
on.
463
00:20:55.423 --> 00:20:57.283
Emmanuel Jean was there
464
00:20:59.383 --> 00:21:02.199
and we, we had a lot of moments like that. Like
465
00:21:02.351 --> 00:21:04.889
you can't go for touching up like as soon as you're
466
00:21:04.937 --> 00:21:07.041
focused to the dance and stuff, you're not.
467
00:21:07.073 --> 00:21:09.937
>> Tiffany Bartok: Like, sorry, can I just get in
468
00:21:09.961 --> 00:21:10.525
there?
469
00:21:13.905 --> 00:21:16.545
>> Speaker C: No, you can't. You will be killed on
470
00:21:16.585 --> 00:21:19.497
the public places like with crocodile and
471
00:21:19.521 --> 00:21:20.320
stuff. Like,
472
00:21:23.595 --> 00:21:26.015
you couldn't. It's really such an impress,
473
00:21:26.080 --> 00:21:29.033
plateau yes. You
474
00:21:29.049 --> 00:21:30.401
know, you get shy.
475
00:21:30.553 --> 00:21:33.417
>> Tiffany Bartok: Yes, yes, yes. Oh, I'm sure. I'm
476
00:21:33.441 --> 00:21:35.641
sure it was amazing. It had to be.
477
00:21:35.713 --> 00:21:38.553
What was the hardest film? What was the hardest number to
478
00:21:38.569 --> 00:21:41.065
shoot? The hospital must have been insanely
479
00:21:41.145 --> 00:21:43.681
challenging. And with the camera movements, the
480
00:21:43.793 --> 00:21:46.617
Selena Gomez, the shoot up at the end. Oh,
481
00:21:46.641 --> 00:21:47.485
my gosh.
482
00:21:48.385 --> 00:21:51.089
>> Speaker C: I just can respond as a makeup artist. Hospital
483
00:21:51.177 --> 00:21:54.005
was easy because it was really intimate.
484
00:21:54.210 --> 00:21:56.619
first we shoot. Jacques wanted to make. To
485
00:21:56.667 --> 00:21:59.347
remake the Gustave Courbet
486
00:21:59.411 --> 00:22:01.935
painting. Oh.
487
00:22:02.595 --> 00:22:05.291
So he wanted to be, like, an homage. But
488
00:22:05.363 --> 00:22:08.309
it's so, It's so there that we couldn't make it
489
00:22:08.357 --> 00:22:11.285
editing it. But I have to say, it was my
490
00:22:11.325 --> 00:22:14.077
favorite work because we trained Carla and
491
00:22:14.101 --> 00:22:17.031
I. She documented me with, what
492
00:22:17.063 --> 00:22:19.797
she's been through, with a physical transition. And we
493
00:22:19.821 --> 00:22:22.591
chose one of the phase where
494
00:22:22.733 --> 00:22:25.283
beautiful and photogenic,
495
00:22:25.339 --> 00:22:28.001
cinemagenic and stuff. And, John
496
00:22:28.033 --> 00:22:30.387
Crystal Spiracini, who made the, Manita
497
00:22:30.491 --> 00:22:32.731
prosthetic, made this beautiful prosthetic
498
00:22:32.803 --> 00:22:35.659
perfect from this photo,
499
00:22:35.827 --> 00:22:38.819
and I put, like, stuff, and we were
500
00:22:38.867 --> 00:22:41.683
really happy about it, but, like, it
501
00:22:41.699 --> 00:22:44.627
didn't. It didn't stay. And it's a good thing that it didn't stay,
502
00:22:44.691 --> 00:22:47.563
because there's so much bad curiosity of people
503
00:22:47.619 --> 00:22:50.607
with transgender operation and
504
00:22:50.631 --> 00:22:53.223
stuff that it wasn't good to.
505
00:22:53.279 --> 00:22:56.167
To. To. To put
506
00:22:56.191 --> 00:22:56.711
it on.
507
00:22:56.783 --> 00:22:57.863
>> Tiffany Bartok: I see. So what.
508
00:22:57.919 --> 00:22:59.955
>> Speaker C: So you wasn't made for it,
509
00:23:00.815 --> 00:23:03.515
but we can tell. It's so, like.
510
00:23:04.815 --> 00:23:07.807
It's. It's bad curiosity. I can tell
511
00:23:07.871 --> 00:23:10.475
from what people, like, ask me
512
00:23:10.815 --> 00:23:13.679
as makeup artists of question and stuff. I
513
00:23:13.687 --> 00:23:15.141
could tell. I was like, what.
514
00:23:15.303 --> 00:23:17.633
>> Tiffany Bartok: What. What's an example? What do you mean?
515
00:23:17.809 --> 00:23:20.242
>> Speaker C: Like, what does it look like? Oh, you know, like.
516
00:23:20.378 --> 00:23:23.346
>> Tiffany Bartok: Like, they're fascinated in the gore of it, in the.
517
00:23:23.530 --> 00:23:23.689
>> Tiffany Bartok: Oh.
518
00:23:23.689 --> 00:23:26.564
>> Speaker C: you know. You know, like, curiosity, and
519
00:23:27.464 --> 00:23:29.720
we don't do that to
520
00:23:29.792 --> 00:23:32.728
anybody. I don't ask
521
00:23:32.816 --> 00:23:35.432
people about their dick as they pushing, you know?
522
00:23:35.528 --> 00:23:38.336
>> Tiffany Bartok: You mean they were. They're too. They're intrusive
523
00:23:38.400 --> 00:23:40.798
about the genitals. Yeah.
524
00:23:40.976 --> 00:23:42.066
>> Speaker C: Not in a good way.
525
00:23:42.170 --> 00:23:44.282
>> Tiffany Bartok: Yeah, yeah, yeah, of course. Of course.
526
00:23:44.418 --> 00:23:47.210
>> Speaker C: And I know that transgender people get really hurt
527
00:23:47.242 --> 00:23:50.130
about this question all the time. Like, so, did you
528
00:23:50.162 --> 00:23:52.666
operate? Did you not operate and stuff? So,
529
00:23:52.810 --> 00:23:55.170
yes, it was a beautiful
530
00:23:55.362 --> 00:23:58.234
work, but I'm glad that we didn't put it in the
531
00:23:58.274 --> 00:23:58.666
film.
532
00:23:58.770 --> 00:24:01.706
>> Tiffany Bartok: Oh, that's really fascinating. Yeah. Because then that
533
00:24:01.730 --> 00:24:04.290
would be all that anybody was talking about, right?
534
00:24:04.362 --> 00:24:06.454
>> Speaker C: Yeah, exactly. Exactly.
535
00:24:08.004 --> 00:24:10.780
Carla was up for it, and she was sure helpful
536
00:24:10.852 --> 00:24:13.756
with documentation. She made me grow so
537
00:24:13.780 --> 00:24:16.348
much as a person. M. But as a makeup
538
00:24:16.396 --> 00:24:17.824
artist, too. Yeah.
539
00:24:18.244 --> 00:24:21.244
>> Tiffany Bartok: Because you really must have talked about what's beauty and what's
540
00:24:21.284 --> 00:24:23.924
beautiful. And what did she want?
541
00:24:23.964 --> 00:24:26.556
>> Speaker C: The respect of. Yeah, exactly. The
542
00:24:26.700 --> 00:24:29.618
respect step of me. of course I read
543
00:24:29.666 --> 00:24:32.650
a lot, and I, listen to
544
00:24:32.682 --> 00:24:35.506
podcasts and stuff, but you're always,
545
00:24:35.610 --> 00:24:38.602
like, you have to ask every step of the way,
546
00:24:38.658 --> 00:24:41.178
is that okay? Is that okay? Is that okay?
547
00:24:41.346 --> 00:24:44.314
And, like, she was helping me so much to make it,
548
00:24:44.394 --> 00:24:47.274
like, easy, and she's not about it. Like, it's
549
00:24:47.314 --> 00:24:48.850
not constant conversation.
550
00:24:48.962 --> 00:24:49.614
>> Tiffany Bartok: Right.
551
00:24:50.594 --> 00:24:53.570
>> Speaker C: We're friends. Like, it's not an identity
552
00:24:53.682 --> 00:24:54.450
as itself.
553
00:24:54.562 --> 00:24:54.834
>> Tiffany Bartok: Right.
554
00:24:54.874 --> 00:24:57.698
>> Speaker C: Just like, for this part of the movie, she help us
555
00:24:57.746 --> 00:25:00.546
with me and John Christophe. Spell it to me.
556
00:25:00.690 --> 00:25:02.694
She offered a document,
557
00:25:04.674 --> 00:25:07.482
and she was happy with Manita's fast. We were
558
00:25:07.538 --> 00:25:08.346
scared of.
559
00:25:08.410 --> 00:25:09.522
>> Tiffany Bartok: I was wondering.
560
00:25:09.658 --> 00:25:12.538
>> Speaker C: Hurtful and. Yeah, traumatized. I didn't know
561
00:25:12.586 --> 00:25:15.388
what we are. well, we were looking for. I was
562
00:25:15.436 --> 00:25:18.308
ready to, you know, take care of her, like, like
563
00:25:18.356 --> 00:25:20.824
crazy for Manita's part. And
564
00:25:21.324 --> 00:25:24.196
no, she's fierce. Like, she was okay, and she
565
00:25:24.220 --> 00:25:27.166
was. She know this role. She
566
00:25:27.230 --> 00:25:29.844
asked, Jacques to play the both of them.
567
00:25:30.344 --> 00:25:33.336
He really asked, and she had to deliver, and
568
00:25:33.360 --> 00:25:36.288
she went all for it. So as soon as we create this
569
00:25:36.336 --> 00:25:39.168
Persona, she was moving, she was
570
00:25:39.296 --> 00:25:42.064
shouting, and she was embodying,
571
00:25:42.144 --> 00:25:45.088
like, this Persona in such an enthusiast manner. I
572
00:25:45.096 --> 00:25:45.776
was relieved.
573
00:25:45.880 --> 00:25:48.856
>> Tiffany Bartok: I was relieved, I mean, that. That my
574
00:25:48.880 --> 00:25:51.752
husband did not believe. He goes, oh, surely
575
00:25:51.808 --> 00:25:52.502
this is.
576
00:25:52.648 --> 00:25:55.258
The Manitas was a different actor. I said,
577
00:25:55.346 --> 00:25:57.794
no. And he was like, that's amazing.
578
00:25:57.874 --> 00:25:59.290
>> Speaker C: I'm so happy to hear that.
579
00:25:59.362 --> 00:26:00.014
>> Tiffany Bartok: Yes.
580
00:26:00.354 --> 00:26:03.200
>> Speaker C: Obvious. But, it was a. It was a challenge. The first
581
00:26:03.232 --> 00:26:06.232
challenge that we had to provide. And at
582
00:26:06.248 --> 00:26:09.004
the end, I was like, I don't know. It's not about that.
583
00:26:09.464 --> 00:26:12.320
If they see it, that's okay. But I can
584
00:26:12.352 --> 00:26:14.696
tell now that people are. Is it the same person?
585
00:26:14.760 --> 00:26:17.648
>> Tiffany Bartok: I mean, yeah, it's phenomenal
586
00:26:17.696 --> 00:26:19.480
work. I mean, absolutely.
587
00:26:19.592 --> 00:26:22.256
>> Speaker C: It's a teamwork. I'm not by
588
00:26:22.280 --> 00:26:23.992
myself. It's a. It's a teamwork.
589
00:26:24.088 --> 00:26:26.684
>> Tiffany Bartok: Well, you can see. Yeah,
590
00:26:26.984 --> 00:26:29.568
you can see that everybody gave 100
591
00:26:29.696 --> 00:26:32.288
because it's strangely. Even though it's such a big,
592
00:26:32.336 --> 00:26:34.840
ambitious project, it's so intimate,
593
00:26:34.952 --> 00:26:37.884
and everyone is just, like, giving
594
00:26:38.384 --> 00:26:41.004
everything to these performances,
595
00:26:41.464 --> 00:26:44.216
but they're strangely not over the top.
596
00:26:44.320 --> 00:26:46.444
Like, they're really authentic.
597
00:26:47.064 --> 00:26:47.528
I just.
598
00:26:47.576 --> 00:26:50.240
>> Speaker C: That was the thing, like, to stylize.
599
00:26:50.432 --> 00:26:53.368
It's a comedy. It's a musical. It's not real. It's in
600
00:26:53.416 --> 00:26:56.136
studio. They were searching for two years
601
00:26:56.200 --> 00:26:57.968
to shoot in Mexico.
602
00:26:58.096 --> 00:26:58.472
>> Tiffany Bartok: Okay.
603
00:26:58.528 --> 00:27:01.520
>> Speaker C: And they couldn't find it. I don't know. It was complicated. So for
604
00:27:01.552 --> 00:27:04.240
two years they lost a lot of money about it and
605
00:27:04.352 --> 00:27:07.136
they decided to do in studio in France. So it's more
606
00:27:07.200 --> 00:27:10.122
France welcoming a, musical that
607
00:27:10.146 --> 00:27:13.060
we are not, you know, about it. And
608
00:27:13.100 --> 00:27:15.649
we are like with, international crew.
609
00:27:15.697 --> 00:27:18.521
And it was. It was scary.
610
00:27:18.593 --> 00:27:21.033
But the good thing with studio is like, you can
611
00:27:21.089 --> 00:27:22.697
stylize a lot.
612
00:27:22.881 --> 00:27:23.385
>> Tiffany Bartok: Yes.
613
00:27:23.465 --> 00:27:26.097
>> Speaker C: You. You choose every. Everything
614
00:27:26.201 --> 00:27:29.169
will go in the image. And
615
00:27:29.217 --> 00:27:32.001
so at some point, if you put a
616
00:27:32.073 --> 00:27:34.961
good volume to everyone, it make it
617
00:27:34.993 --> 00:27:35.765
believable.
618
00:27:36.065 --> 00:27:37.337
>> Tiffany Bartok: Yes. Yes.
619
00:27:37.401 --> 00:27:40.357
>> Speaker C: If you go to, 100, like. Like American
620
00:27:40.461 --> 00:27:42.825
people, American actor, play
621
00:27:43.205 --> 00:27:44.741
100. Like.
622
00:27:44.813 --> 00:27:45.253
>> Tiffany Bartok: Yes.
623
00:27:45.349 --> 00:27:48.157
>> Speaker C: Voice. And you have this story with dancing
624
00:27:48.221 --> 00:27:50.765
and singing and stuff. They use
625
00:27:50.885 --> 00:27:53.733
every tool that they have. So French. We are
626
00:27:53.749 --> 00:27:56.429
not like that. We are really like
627
00:27:56.557 --> 00:27:59.180
low. And And so if we decide of this
628
00:27:59.220 --> 00:28:01.724
volume of dancing, for example, we need to
629
00:28:01.772 --> 00:28:04.772
decide should we go down with this volume to make
630
00:28:04.796 --> 00:28:07.360
this believable or should we go at this.
631
00:28:08.020 --> 00:28:09.730
It was a lot of, search.
632
00:28:10.030 --> 00:28:12.790
>> Tiffany Bartok: That's really interesting. That's really interesting.
633
00:28:12.870 --> 00:28:15.758
Because the performances were still intense. You know
634
00:28:15.774 --> 00:28:18.662
what I mean? But they weren't exactly what you're talking about. It wasn't me, me,
635
00:28:18.686 --> 00:28:21.366
me, me, me. You know, it's. It's serving the
636
00:28:21.398 --> 00:28:22.046
story.
637
00:28:22.238 --> 00:28:25.014
>> Speaker C: And every scene doesn't look like the scene
638
00:28:25.062 --> 00:28:27.290
after. But somehow, it makes it
639
00:28:27.330 --> 00:28:29.512
cohesive because of, Juliette.
640
00:28:29.536 --> 00:28:31.380
Well, thing or did the editing.
641
00:28:31.930 --> 00:28:34.786
Somehow it works. Doesn't
642
00:28:34.818 --> 00:28:37.594
look like any movie. Everything doesn't look.
643
00:28:37.642 --> 00:28:40.330
Even just the founding stuff.
644
00:28:40.450 --> 00:28:40.778
>> Tiffany Bartok: Yeah.
645
00:28:40.834 --> 00:28:43.802
>> Speaker C: There's a trip. You're like, what look like
646
00:28:43.826 --> 00:28:46.658
Stephen Soderbergh, 70s. I don't know. And
647
00:28:46.674 --> 00:28:49.466
you're like, oh, okay. On a blue
648
00:28:49.538 --> 00:28:50.042
screen.
649
00:28:50.146 --> 00:28:50.810
>> Tiffany Bartok: Yeah.
650
00:28:50.970 --> 00:28:53.946
>> Speaker C: And they're like this. I love the
651
00:28:53.978 --> 00:28:56.385
scene when Selena is singing, with
652
00:28:56.425 --> 00:28:59.059
Edgar. Oh, yes, Me,
653
00:28:59.147 --> 00:29:01.937
Camino. And with all the effect
654
00:29:02.001 --> 00:29:04.705
and stuff. And it's not good quality of
655
00:29:04.745 --> 00:29:07.641
picture, but it show. It shows they are
656
00:29:07.673 --> 00:29:10.365
in a bar and stuff. So to
657
00:29:11.305 --> 00:29:13.873
trust the process of it. Like, I feel
658
00:29:14.009 --> 00:29:16.353
everyone. Good. Did a good job, I think.
659
00:29:16.489 --> 00:29:19.249
>> Tiffany Bartok: Oh, I. I love this movie. I.
660
00:29:19.377 --> 00:29:22.073
I really want. I hope people will see it. And
661
00:29:22.129 --> 00:29:25.013
I. I was so mad at Netflix
662
00:29:25.069 --> 00:29:27.997
because it wasn't on the. You know, it didn't push it to
663
00:29:28.021 --> 00:29:30.885
me right away. So everybody who sees it, please
664
00:29:30.965 --> 00:29:33.821
go and like it so that it pushes, you know, gets on
665
00:29:33.853 --> 00:29:36.661
the placement for when you turn on Netflix. And I want the
666
00:29:36.693 --> 00:29:38.245
poster to just be right there.
667
00:29:38.405 --> 00:29:41.141
>> Speaker C: Yeah. But maybe it's about desire and
668
00:29:41.173 --> 00:29:43.705
searching. Maybe it's a good choice of Netflix.
669
00:29:44.605 --> 00:29:47.237
I don't know. I don't know. I think they do a
670
00:29:47.261 --> 00:29:50.085
tremendous job to. Even for me to
671
00:29:50.125 --> 00:29:52.965
talk about my work and stuff. It never happened
672
00:29:53.005 --> 00:29:55.681
to me, you know. And Netflix is, is
673
00:29:55.713 --> 00:29:58.231
pushing, our team to. And
674
00:29:58.303 --> 00:30:00.879
such, such a blessing for us. Like,
675
00:30:01.047 --> 00:30:03.759
I'm amazed of what I'm going through and my team.
676
00:30:03.807 --> 00:30:06.559
>> Tiffany Bartok: And we are so happy to hear that because you
677
00:30:06.607 --> 00:30:09.295
deserve it. It's the, the, the creative,
678
00:30:09.375 --> 00:30:12.135
the, the department heads for this and the
679
00:30:12.175 --> 00:30:14.999
creative approach for this is just. They
680
00:30:15.047 --> 00:30:17.555
don't make films like this. They just don't.
681
00:30:17.975 --> 00:30:18.955
Thank you.
682
00:30:19.255 --> 00:30:20.635
>> Speaker C: It's Jack and Vi.
683
00:30:21.605 --> 00:30:24.533
>> Tiffany Bartok: Fantastic. I want to see many, many more. And
684
00:30:24.629 --> 00:30:27.221
thank you so much. It was lovely to talk to you,
685
00:30:27.253 --> 00:30:27.901
Julia.
686
00:30:28.013 --> 00:30:30.653
>> Speaker C: It was lovely. I, liked it. Thank you.
687
00:30:30.749 --> 00:30:32.653
>> Tiffany Bartok: More soon. More soon. And good luck.
688
00:30:32.709 --> 00:30:33.505
>> Speaker C: Hope so.
689
00:30:33.805 --> 00:30:34.117
>> Tiffany Bartok: Bye.
690
00:30:34.141 --> 00:30:34.493
>> Speaker C: Bye.
691
00:30:34.589 --> 00:30:35.225
>> Tiffany Bartok: Bye.
692
00:30:35.725 --> 00:30:38.685
>> Tiffany Bartok: Look behind the look is a vinyl foot production written by
693
00:30:38.725 --> 00:30:41.349
me, your host, Tiffany Bartok. Produced by Jace
694
00:30:41.397 --> 00:30:44.373
Bartok. Edited by Mugresh Thakur. If you're interested
695
00:30:44.389 --> 00:30:46.991
in learning more, find our video version on the
696
00:30:47.023 --> 00:30:49.663
YouTube channel look behind the look podcast.
697
00:30:49.799 --> 00:30:52.607
There you can see rare photos and clips from our guests
698
00:30:52.711 --> 00:30:55.415
and please follow us on Twitter @lookbehindpod
699
00:30:55.495 --> 00:30:58.415
and Instagram @lookbehindthelook. If you like
700
00:30:58.455 --> 00:31:01.279
the show, please rate, review and subscribe
701
00:31:01.367 --> 00:31:02.207
and tell your friends.
702
00:31:02.271 --> 00:31:05.015
>> Tiffany Bartok: And spread the word. You can subscribe to us on itunes.
703
00:31:05.055 --> 00:31:08.007
>> Tiffany Bartok: Or any podcatcher of your choice. Thanks for listening
704
00:31:08.111 --> 00:31:10.015
to look behind the Look.
Bite-sized deep dives into some of my favorite hair, makeup, and style moments in film history.